Need a little bit of help..how might I take the gear set out of a Gary Fisher..Fischer? Marlin?


I've already removed the rear wheel, but I'd like to know if I'll need any special tools, or will I be able to rig with a couple of screwdrivers.



Answers:

I know this story was is old but who believs floyd landis was innocent?

There are several ways to change the gear ratios & changing the rear gear cluster is just one end of the chain drive.

Not being sure what the sprockets are I know that the biggest range on the high gear end will be a 11 tooth small tooth and probably a 52 or 53 on the large gear



The other end would be a likely a 32 ( unless it is a mega sprocket 34 more on that later) and a 32 at the pedal if used with the 52

You could change the front gears.
I think the range of gears in the front go from
52 -42- 32 to 44 34 24 (if using a common 110 5 hole sprocket hole pattern [an older early size 5 hole bolt size for mountan bikes ])

Different hole patterns have different gears available.
For instance the front could be a 97 bcd 5 hole size might have a range of 42 32 22 of there abouts.

These can easily be changed with a couple of the correct size allen wrenches.

The rear gear cluster might be able to be removed with a screw driver and wrench if you are clever enough and it is a gear cluster and not a freewheel. The tool(s) that they talk about just make the job a whole lot easier.
A local bike shop will be , or should be very happy to remove this for you for free

If it is a gear cluster the rear hub ( if it is slender ) will have a tell tale bulge on the gear side of the hub. If it does not have this bulge and it is a slim hub ( like about an 1 inch in diameter ) and not a a large diameter hub . THis should be fairly obvious when you look at the rear hub.
If it is a slim diameter hub and does not have the 'bulge' on the gear side it is very likely a free wheel that is scewed on and will definatey need a special tool to remove the rear gear cluster. Again the LBS ( local bike shop) will likely do this for free


There is also an issue about the rear shifter.
Some rear shifters can only shift to a certain large size gear for example a 30 or 32 size large gear and can handle so much chain up take often referred to range. This refers to the idea that as you change the gears the shifter arm moves to take up the slack of the chain and there is only so much slack that can be taken up by any particular shifter. ,
This might be another reason to visit a local bike shop but since you have access to the internet you can look up the make and model of ther rear shifter and learn more

Sheldon Brown has several articles that tells all about bikes

http://www.sheldonbrown.com

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/articles.htm...

http://www.wideopenwest.com/~lipetz/bicy...
^ ^ ^ ^ gear calculator ^ ^ ^ ^

Larger gears are for going down hill smaller gear ratio for going up hills

I put a £5 on eton road to win x factor and i will win £30 do you think i ll see it?

You'll need a removal tool, depending on what type of cogset you have (shamano, etc...) You'll also most likely need a chainwhip, and a good wrench. You can get either from performance bike. Once you have all the proper tools, it's a very simple job.

Ive been cycling consistently since january and I recently weighed myself and I actually gained weight?

Lockring tool and a chain whip, both from Nashbar for like 10 bucks.

http://www.nashbar.com/results.cfm?subca...

You go to digging around with a couple of screwdrivers, and it'll end up costing you a lot more.

I am looking for my first mountain bike?

your bike has a shimano cassette in order to remove it you need a splined cassette/ freewheel removal tool & a chain whip to hold the cassette from moving when you use the tool to remove the cap. it is a simple job and you MAY be able to use punches or screw drivers but I DON'T recomend it!! for less then the price of the proper tools you can have your local bike shop do it right ( I don,t charge for it if I sold them the cassette or if not $2 or $3 it only takes about 1min.) I JUST REREAD YOUR QUESTION those nuts your looking at are the axel bearing cones and spacer DON"T touch them unless you know what your doing they can be a real pain to adjust! look at the cassette the end cap has splines THAT is how yoy remove the cassette the tool inserts into the splines GO TO www.parktools.com you will see the tools mentioned above and also instructions on how to use them GOOD LUCK ;-}

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